8/8 DAY 9: CHASING ROCKS

I pulled out of the campground at 9AM. I didn't pull into the next one until 8PM. It was a long crazy day. I'm exhausted, sitting in a restaurant with seafood on the way. The first carafe of beer is already in front of me. The day was spent chasing old piles of rocks. My first point of interest was Tharros, a Punic, Phoenician, Roman ruin at the end of a long beautiful cape which juts out to frame the north end of the bay of Oristano. I had heard that Tharros wasn't much more than a pile of rocks, which turned out to be a pretty accurate description. But the setting was remarkable. I rode through vineyards on my way out the cape. The grapes were ripe for the picking. I started with the sweet green and moved on to the the bitter plump purple. I was literally riding down the road with clumps of grapes in both hands. There's an old tower that overlooks Tharros. I had my midday's meal in it's shadow overlooking the rocky coast and clear blue sea. I finished up my pecorino and moved on. The next leg would prove more vexing.

I ventured back inland and uphill. I sought the Nuraghe Losa, one of the most impressive on the island. Nuraghes are 4000 year old structures which dot the island. There are over 7000 of them in Sardinia, many of them no more than a pile of rocks. Archeologists don't know who build these things or why. This one almost killed me getting to it. It was a steady uphill through cow pastures and olive groves. I chose small roads to avoid the four lane highway, and I got lost once. There was no breeze or cloud cover to protect me from the searing 95º heat- only the shade of an occasional olive tree. I went through six liters of water, and my supply kept getting hot. Oh how I hate drinking hot water to cool myself off. I had to stop briefly because I thought I'd pass out. I finished off my peaches with hot water. Almost there I met two fellow cyclists, German priests who were cycling around Corsica and Sardinia. They were cutting up through the hot interior north to Alghero. They hoped to make Bosa by nightfall. They were sleeping in campgrounds and on church grounds. My final stretch to the Nuraghe Losa was by no choice the four lane highway. I finally arrived, and it was worth it. It was the best Nuraghe I had seen by far. At first glance it was simplistic. Once inside I realized how complex the thing was. The interior was like a roughly hewn Richard Sera Torqued Ellipse created out of boulders.

The people in Oristano province are so friendly. I get to use my Italian, and it's inexpensive. It's not as beautiful as up north in Gallura. The city of Oristano is like Omaha. It's cow country here. I didn't want to take the four lane highway back to Oristano, so I found an alternate route through Fordongianus. I was dead tired by this time, but what was I gonna do? I briefly visited a Roman bath ruin. There was water streaming out of the hill into a pool of water. I don't know what I was thinking. I was delirious.The signs all read Thermal Baths. But it was hot out and I was hot. My instincts told me to put my hands into the water to cool off. Ouch! The water was scalding hot! They obviously didn't get that much business this time of year. I busted a rear spoke leaving the ruin. This could evolve into a major problem, and I'm gonna have to keep an eye on it. I could repair it with baling wire or take my bike to a shop. If three or four go, I'm in trouble.

I had a head wind wind all the way back into Oristano. Just my luck. Almost into town I was tempted to buy a watermelon, but had the better sense to head to bar instead. I ordered a small beer and a large frizzly water to go. I finished my beer and headed into town. I didn't care for Oristano. It's a big industrial town. There's a nice central area, but the surrounding areas, including the port, were unpleasant and fetid. All I wanted was to find a place to sleep so I peddled and peddled down the road. I finally found the next campground and set up my tent.
I'm sore, but sated. What a great meal I just had. I still have a while to go on my second carafe. Tomorrow will need to be an easier day.