Wednesday, August 22, 2007

8/7 DAY 8: DOWN THE WEST COAST


With very little sleep I awoke early to the snoring German guy two feet away. Rather than roll back over, I got up, packed, and was on the road by 8:30. I stopped for a little snack of grapes an hour later atop a tall seaside cliff, with Capo Caccia now far in the distance. I rode hard to Bossa, meeting two cyclists along the way. Ian was from New Zealand and Rebecca from Switzerland. They were doing the whole island on bike and public transportation. Ian had done a lot of bicycle touring and was rather politically opinionated. He knew a lot about bikes and was more familiar with mine than I was. He was impressed, and of course, loved my bumper stickers. They were also on mountain bikes, which can handle just about anything - even the cobblestone alleyways of beautiful Bosa, my first destination.

I really hadn't been expecting anything, but was pleasantly surprised. Bosa is a densely packed town which runs along the Temo river. The houses are stacked upon one another in between narrow lanes running up the steep hill to the castle. There were other tourists here, but it was nothing like Alghero. I had my lunch up on the castle walls while gazing down at the terra cotta rooftops below. Afterwards I went looking for a supposed old Roman bridge. I couldn't find the bridge, so I continued south climbing an enormous hill that I had been warned about by the Dutch cyclist. I rode through the heat of the day. The road veered away from the coast and just kept going and going. I went through 4-1/2 liters of water! Fortunately there were a few clouds in the sky. Finally I hit a steady downhill that took me down into Oristano province. I rejoined the coast, and there in the water appeared new kinds of rock formations. They were smooth and sculptural like Brancusi. I settled into a very spacious and friendly campground. I ended the day down at the beach watching the sun set with a couple of Ichnusas, pane carasau and pecorino.

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