8/3 DAY 4: R&R

I slept so well last night. It was completely replenishing. I awoke to the seven chimes from the bell tower, got up, shaved, and was packed by 8AM. I gave the keys back to Anna. She wouldn't let me take her picture. Then I was off. I didn't have breakfast until I found blackberries. They literally line the roads of Sardenia. I had plotted the shortest route to Capo Caccia avoiding the main roads. It was a beautiful ride. I passed through the smallest villages. The nicest lady at the supermarket offered me cold frizzly water. I've taken a liking to frizzly water- frizzante in Italian. Things cost nothing in the interior.

I arrived at the three star campground just before noon. We had our laughs at the front gate. I guess not too many people arrive by bicycle. I set up my camp and dutifully did all my laundry. Then it was down to the market for some pane carasau, pecorino cheese, and a big bottle of beer. I headed back to my hammock for the good life. I stayed there all afternoon. This morning I had noticed patterned sunburn on my chest, meaning that I needed to start wearing sunscreen underneath my clothes. I also noticed chaffs on the bottom of my feet and saddle sores. This trip is totally doable. I started it by stretching my legs and covering ground. I regret not having spent the night in Palau. It was nice there. From now on I'll plot my itinerary around campgrounds.

I'm right outside of Capo Caccio, a huge rocky cape that bulges out into the sea. There's a cave there which I'll visit tomorrow. I'm camped in a small cove called Torre del Poricciolo, named after the Spanish tower which stands guard there. I went for a swim and then sat on a rock while watching the sun set. The panorama was beautiful and all mine to myself. After a hike up to the tower to watch the blue waves crash into the rocky coastline I went out for some fish (finally!) and a couple of beers. This place is setting me back. Time to hit a supermarket.