8/11 DAY 12: A LONG RIDE

I've left Sardinia. I'm technically now on Italy's fourth largest island, Isola San Antioco. It's the furthest southwest I'll get on this trip. I'm now closer to Africa than mainland Europe. I've completely toured the entire western Sardinia coast, from Stintino all the way down. It's been absolutely beautiful, and so different from place to place.

Today was a long ride. I was out of the campground by 7:45 and back up into the mountains an hour later. It was a 120Km trip under cloud cover, making it easy. I consumed only 1-1/2 liters of water. More than half of the trip was through mountains. I went over two passes, both around 550 meters. That's not much compared to northern Italy, but they add up nonetheless. I stopped at two spots along the way. First I visited the temple of Antas. It was only recently discovered, and so charming in that magic mountain valley. It was the best Roman ruin yet. The temple inspired me to backtrack to the Grotta de su Mannau. The link between western philosophy / architecture to caves being so apparent. The grotto was impressive. It was huge, and still geologically active. It would have been fun to have taken the wet suit tour. What is it with me, such a tall guy, and my interest in caves?

Following the cave, it was a long ride to Iglesias, where again I got lost, but fortunately only briefly. I hate how they do the directions here. I'm on a bicycle and couldn't be going any slower. How could I possibly lose a main road, Strada Provinciale number 126? I had the entire route and all of the towns along the way memorized. Yet every time I enter a big town, all of the roads converge into the center and it becomes practically impossible to leave town in the right direction. I had even asked someone if I was going the right way. At least I didn't go too far out of the way. Southwest Sardinia is totally economically depressed. It's farm and former mining country. My guide book covers the mining story well, and I found it is so true.

I arrived at the campground after 6PM. The last 20Km were challenging, probably in part to the fruit shopping I did before I reached Isola San'Antioco. I'm completely nuts. I bought a watermelon and strapped it to the top of all the other crap I had back there. It's a wonder I didn't break anymore spokes.
It's so absolutely beautiful here on the southern side of this island. There's a whole array of sunbathing rocks and the snorkeling is superb. I'll stay two nights here so I can finish my book. I also want to visit neighboring Isola San Pietro. I'm camped about 50 meters from the water's edge. After I watched the sunset from the rocks, I returned to my hammock where I laid for two hours watching the colors in the sky fade to black, stars appearing from nowhere.