Sunday, August 19, 2007

7/31 DAY 1: THE EMERALD COAST


The ferry pulled into Olbia at 7AM and I immediately set out to explore the town. Everything was still closed, so I headed out, first in the wrong direction, and then north towards Porto Cervo. The scraggly granite mountains here are beautiful. It reminds me of Baja California or northern Mexico. I rode into the luxury resort of Porto Cervo. The jet set yachting thing isn't my scene at all. This is how most people probably associate Sardinia. At least it's subdued. I found a beautiful little beach south of town where I took my first swim. The cool clear water really was emerald. Afterwards, I wound my way around the cape to Palau. There were so many beautiful spots along the way. I managed to slice my headphone cord and dent my luggage rack trying to get to one of those spots. I also gouged my calf. Off road seems to be where the danger is. I found a beautiful spot in Palau to stop and go for a swim. I sat on a big granite formation, ducking in and out of the shade. I should have avoided the sun completely, but the breeze was so cool. I read and ate peaches in between dips. It was perfect. At around 4PM I set south for Arzachena. Here I found a new set of headphones and stocked up on water. I need to keep three liters in the racks at all times. I visited a number of prehistoric archeological sites, called Nuraghye and Giant's tombs. The sites weren't as dramatic as I had hoped. The last two were closed by the time I got there so I jumped the fence. It was starting to get late. The setting sun was stunning as I headed down this quiet little road in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by massive granite formations and ancient cow pastures. I found a large patch of blackberries where I ate to my hearts content. Sardinia is providing my nourishment already! It was getting dark so I pulled my bike and all of my gear over an old stone wall and set up my tent in the pasture. It ended up getting pretty cold that night. I had to wear my jacket and use my towel as a blanket. I guess I should have packed a sleeping bag.

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